I had a boss who, when partaking of a restaurant for the first time, would always ask, “What are you famous for?” I’ve borrowed this question and applied it myself. However, in the case of Que Divino Cocina Mexicana, they tell you on the menu what they are famous for: birria tacos.
Birria has a fascinating history. Its roots go back to goats that Cortéz and the Conquistadors (that would be a great name for a band!) brought to Mexico and left to the locals. The locals stewed the goats with adobo spices, something the Spaniards referred to derisively as “birria!” (worthless!). The birria tacos we generally see in Austin are Tijuana-style beef birrias with a consomé dipping sauce. If there’s cheese in there, it’s a quesobirria.
Birria tacos aren’t particularly healthy but, ooma-umame, they are incredibly flavorful. Que Divino’s birrias are, appropriately enough, devilishly divine. The adobo has deep, rich flavors that would be first rate on their own. Add the consomé, and those tacos are eyes-rolling-into-the-back-of-your-head good.
The salsa has bang, and the chips (as well as the tortillas) are housemade. The other tacos are tasty, but everything pales next to those homewrecker birrias. The enchiladas were good, and the bar was still finding the sweet (and sour) spot for its margaritas during their soft opening.
Que Divino comes to us from Hutto where the family started as a truck in 2019, elevated to brick and mortar, and are now expanding to Austin. They also offer breakfast tacos, but sadly close the breakfast kitchen too early to enjoy brunch on the weekends. Perhaps it’s a sign of old age, but the prices seemed a bit high for the chow. Regardless, those birria tacos are priceless. He didn’t know it at the time, but the gold Cortéz sought was stewing in cabrito pots right under his nose.
Que Divino Cocina Mexicano, 3435 Greystone Drive, Austin, Texas; www.quedivinocosina.com
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