Fonda San Miguel is not only a great restaurant—frequently topping Austin best-of lists—it’s also an important restaurant, introducing Austin (and Texas) not only to the fine-dining of Mexican-from-Mexico cuisine (Mex-Mex?) but also cuisine from the Mexican interior. Started in 1975 by Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago, Fonda San Miguel has been cooking at the comal for almost 50 years at the same location in the heart of Allandale. Surviving 50 years in this town is remarkable, but to be so popular as to require reservations weeks out to land a table is saying something (we’ve been trying to stop in for the past 10 years!).
With reservations in hand, we entered the hacienda through the two enormous doors, stepping into a stunning Mexican-styled courtyard. Despite a 5:00 pm opening and our 5:30 reservations, the place was already hopping from its first seating. We were placed in the main dining area and quickly ordered bevs, a Silver Coin Margarita (watermelon-infused tequila, frozen limeade, Contreau; $16) and a House Margarita ($14) on the rocks, both good (and strong).
Instead of a normal appetizer, we started with the Ancho Relleno San Miguel (chile ancho filled with chicken, olives, capers, and almonds served over a light cilantro cream sauce; $29), one of Fonda’s signature dishes (and one we hadn’t tried before). Wow. The chile serves as a treasure chest embracing a beach of ambrosial ingredients eroding in a tide of rich sauce.
For mains, The Bride caught the Pescado a la Plancha (grilled fish fillet seasoned with recado and served with salsa verde, rajas, and grilled vegetables; $37). while I went with the boring (for Fonda) choice of Enchiladas de Mole Poblano (chicken and mole topped with sesame seeds and a side of refried beans and rice; $25). “Mole is never a boring choice,” our able server responded. Indeed. I always taste history when I have good mole, and the rich, deep, and delicious flavors of Puebla came alive with this plate. The Bride’s fish was unctuous and wonderfully seasoned—almost blackened. I wondered (internally—The Bride can eat what The Bride wants to eat) about the wisdom of ordering fish at the Fonda, but it was a wise choice.
We boxed up half of our entrees (bonus points for compostable doggie boxes) so we could enjoy an order of Tres Leches Cake (with Mango sorbet garnished with mango and strawberry; $14) and French-pressed decaf ($4.5). Almost too pretty to eat, the cake was a perfect ending to the meal.
Sadly, Chef Ravago passed away in 2017, but his partner Gilliland has thankfully kept the tradition running. However, Gilliland has also enhanced the menu to accommodate the Balkanization of diets. The current chowslinger, Chef Blanca Zesati, has expanded the menu with a series of vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, and dairy-free dishes under the banner “De La Tierra” (and they all sound delicious). Fonda San Miguel is preparing for its 50th anniversary in 2025 with plans for a bold birthday fiesta. Let’s hope for more fiestas to come!
Fonda San Miguel, 2330 West North Loop, www.fondasanmiguel.com
I wrote this review for the Allandale Neighbor. (December 2023, v 38, i 6, p 17-18)
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