The small aluminum window swimming in a sea of bright orange frames Danny Blair like the Mona Lisa, his slightly smiling face calmly takes your order before he steps behind the grill to conjure de Vinci-esque magic with chicken, cheese, and tortillas. Blair’s bread-and-butter are the Mission-style burritos he adored after moving to San Francisco from Houston. When a career in accounting failed to light his griddle, he traded his abacus for lettuce and enrolled in culinary school. After stints in Frisco and at local taco elites Nixta and Suerte, Blair first rolled his Asado’s Taqueria trailer to 45th and Burnet before joining Cheri Coffee and Flowers and My Sweetish Friend at 6726 Burnet.
Not surprisingly, as a chef, Blair has perfected preparation, proportions, and balance where you taste everything, and everything tastes great. Mission-style burritos are traditionally held together by steamed tortillas (and aluminum foil), but at Asado’s you can “Make it crispy” dorado-style á la La Taqueria in the Golden Gate City. Trust me: you want to “Make it crispy.” The dorado elevates Blair’s burritos to OMG-I’m-dreaming-of-you-tonight territory. Chewy, crunchy, savory, and enormous, this is everything you want in a burrito. I’m not an expert in Mission-style burritos, but this is the best one I’ve had and, I suspect, the best one in Austin.
Blair also slings other dishes. Most notable are his epically good quesadillas in which that crisping magic elevates them into the best in town. If the prices scare you (regular burritos or quesadillas [protein, rice, pinto beans; $12], super burritos or quesadillas [protein, rice, pinto beans, guacamole, sour cream, and Monterey Jack cheese; $14]), note that one order is enough for two people. The tacos are large (“I just needed one of these,” The Bride proclaimed) and good but not exceptional like the burritos and dillas. Bowls (aka burritos sans tortillas) are also in the playbook. You can order items regular or super, the latter adding guacamole, sour cream, and two to three bucks to the bill. I supe everything because I appreciate the contrast in texture and temperature.
Each order at Asado’s comes with small ramekins of red and green pureed salsas. These seemingly innocent-looking salsas pack a punch, reminiscent of reactor drippings from the South Texas Nuclear Generating Station. Kudos to Blair for serving the spiciest side salsas this side of Muleshoe. If you’re a fan of heat (like we are), these salsas are perfect for drizzling over your food. If not, keep them in your medicine cabinet for cauterizing wounds. It’s worth noting that the salsa that comes with an order of chips is purpose-made and milder, catering to all taste preferences.
Many have speculated about Mona Lisa’s enigmatic expression. Is she happy? Is she melancholy? Is she content? Is she mischievous? Devious? Ultimately, I don’t know. But based on Danny Blair, there’s a good chance she had just served up a suped and crispy Mission-style burrito to yet another happy customer.
Asado’s Taqueria, 6726 Burnet Road, (512) 298-3972
I wrote this review for the Allandale Neighbor. (December 2024, v 39, i 6, p 17-18)
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