Alex Bell is magical. He commands the head of the table—a large golden moon, layers of candles, and strings of light behind him-—while vividly describing the wines he’s paired with the first of the evening’s seven courses. He regales us with the geologic and pedologic narratives of the land beneath the vines, the chronicles of the grapes, the personal challenges and chronologies of owners, and, finally, in a rhythmic beat poet crescendo in the escalating voice of a big-tent evangelical, the flavors of the wines. My dark soul is saved at last!
“GARBA-GARBA-GARBA-GARBA-GARBA!!!!”
What the hell is THAT? Why, it’s Chef Donald Young of Chicago’s Duck Sel huffing on a duck whistle! With our attention, the Michelin-starred chef explains his personal connection to the dish before a mad-dash listing of the ingredients that leaves him (and us) breathless. He’s clearly having fun, and he’s enjoying his there-ain’t-no-edges-on-the-road menu.
We first met Bell when he was the sommelier at Aviary, one of our favorite Austin restaurants before it closed last year. Aviary was a magical place with great food, great wines, great staff, and a great atmosphere. During covid, Bell started Midnight in the Garden as a covid safe (outdoors) way for his small covid community to still enjoy food, wine, and company. Post covid, Bell has kept the Garden alive with visiting chefs and varying locations, earning well-deserved kudos along the way.
The menu was phenomenal with Mangalica Ham Bombolini (shio kombu, finger lime, egg yolk [paired with Laherte Frères Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut]), Ora King Salmon (carrot, kish mish, trout roe [paired with Skinner Vineyards Grenache Blanc 2022]), Chef Duck Boyardee (“Chicago” caviar, strawberry tomato, manchego [Ver Sacrum “Gloria” 2021]), Duck & Waffle (maple, good butter, blueberries [paired with Alma 4 Blanc de Blanc 2020]), White People Taco Night (dry aged beef, pineapple, corn [paired with Calabretta Vigne Vecchie Nerello Mascalese]), Dry Aged “Peking” Duck (concord hoisin, pancake, leek [Mas Cal Demoura “Terre de Jonquières” 2015]), and Memories of Culver’s (“reeses”, cookie dough, chocolate [paired with Bodegas César Florido Moscatel “Dorado” Sherry]).
Whew!
The food was crazily inventive and delicious (and there was much more to it than indicated on the evening’s menu). There was a lot of sweet and savory simply crazy. For example, the Chef Duck Boyardee arrived in a tin can with, bottom-up, a duck meatball (wow), noodles, and crispy top, and candied stuff. The Duck & Waffle had the most amazing duck butter to dab on the waffle. The King Salmon was prepared in a way that turned the salmon into something like butter. The main course duck was perfectly prepared with the most savory of rubs. As a bonus, the chef sent us home with a tres leches/cereal treat for the morning.
Each seating has 24 spots with a long, community table, so you meet folks on either side of you, foodies all, of course. While you do not see a menu when you sign up, a full (and professionally printed) menu awaits you at your seat along with a keepsake tarot card honoring the chef. The vibe is Austin from 20 years ago when grassroots culture defined the city instead of the scraped homes and AudiTeslaBMWs of today.
This was our first Midnight in the Garden, but it will not be our last. We need all the magic (and duck calls) we can get.
austin wanderlist 