I was set to review Guild, an upscale seafood restaurant that was quite good (and may be reopening downtown), when it closed, and then I was set to review its replacement, Rosedale, when the pandemic hit. But since they’re open for curbside with a limited menu (and since I’m reluctant to eat in a restaurant yet), here we are.
Rosedale Bar and Kitchen is part of the Chameleon Group, which includes a personal favorite, Swift’s Attic, as well as Wu Chow. Where Guild was an upscale fancypants seafood establishment, Rosedale is more of a fancyshorts neighborhood place. Rosedale’s thing is elevated line-chef comfort food (with a crazy aunt in the attic). Take, for example, the Fruity Pebble Toast (with whipped cream; $9). I ordered it on a whim (Fruity Pebble?) and received a gigantic slice of French toast bejeweled and garnished with Kellogg’s Fruity Pebbles! It was a tad too sweet and rich for our too-old tongues (and too-thick thighs), but we got it all down with wide grins.
The Fruity Pebble Toast (and the Homer Donut with cherry glaze and rainbow sprinkles; $4.5) comes from the fun mind of Chef Janelle Reynolds, a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Austin and formerly of Bess Bistro. Reynolds has filled the New American menu with healthy salads, a grain bowl, the requisite burger, and many other items. The Pork Belly BLT (crispy pork belly, beefsteak tomato, bibb lettuce, roasted garlic aoli, and ciabatta; $14+fried egg for $2) is a gorgeous sandwich, although the pork belly was too much fat for my taste (good grief: I’m starting to sound like a health nut!). Rosedale’s version of tater tots, loaded with melted cheese, jalapenos, scallions, and a fried egg, is built for adults (or sassy-tongued youngsters) and was was fun and delicious finger-fork food. For brunch, the bride ordered the Eggs Benedict, which came adorned with greens and raisins galore (and, of course, the bride doesn’t like raisins): gorgeous, good, and ably done. The coffee was hot-dang great.
Ultimately, Rosedale is a bright and cheery place designed for aspirational families while offering elevated childhood standards for the adults. As such, it’s a fun run down memory lane while feeding the rugrats.
I wrote this review for the Allandale Neighbor.
web&where: interwebs; 3800 north lamar; (512) 729-0052
what’s the deal? elevated childhood staples; table service
overall: ** (food**; drink**; atmosphere***; service**; instagrammability***)
– meh [think twice]
* OK [it’ll get the job done]
** good [solid neighborhood joint]
*** damn good [we’ll definitely be back]
**** yippity-yikes that was amazeballs [fantastic; one of the best]
***** holy sh!t [transcendental; best of the best]
Pork Belly BLT
Loaded Tater Tots
Benedict Your Way