gràcia mediterranean

Fresh Chickpea Hummus

Sliding gracefully from meringue to Mediterranean, Cameron Lockley, owner of Gusto a few units south, has transformed the former Fluff factory to Gràcia, a fish-forward, Mediterranean-inspired restaurant and wine bar. Although Gràcia was busy, we landed a seat without a reservation on a recent Saturday evening and chose to enjoy the covered patio fronting Burnet. Indoors and out, the space is sleek but comfy with just enough shabby-chic to keep it real.

Although pitched, in part, as a wine bar, we tried the resident mixology. The Dancing in the Moonlight (Matusalem Platino and Gran Reserva, Rothman & Winter Peach, Tempus Fugit Liquer de Violettes, and line; $15), perky and peachy-pink, was perfect for sipping while The Bride’s Spanish G&T (Gin Mare, lemon and pink peppercorn cordial, and tonic; $15) was bright and ginnier than a cotton seed separator in Muleshoe.

Dishes are tapas-style sharable, and you can build to satiation over the evening as you see fit. The Fresh Chickpea Hummus (Aleppo chili oil, za’atar, and house flatbread; $12 with crudite, +$4) owned the table with an amazing landslide of savory dried herbs (za’atar), although I wished the chili had a kick to it. The Bride thoroughly enjoyed the farmtable simplicity of the Brussel Sprouts (with capers and garlic; $12), but—not being much of a greens eater—I wished for more flavors.

The hit of the evening was the Scallops (Jumbo U10 Day Boat scallops, whipped potato, truffle butter, and pea shoots; $25). At first, scallops on taters seemed a little odd (The Bride’s brow furrowed upon arrival), but the combo of perfectly broiled scallops and expertly whipped potatoes was magic. Another winner was the Calamari Bolognese (with potato gnocchi, tomato, anchovy, harissa, and parsley; $22) with the calamari blended into a hearty sauce that embraced the gnocchi. We ended the evening with the interesting (in a very good way) Bay Leaf Gelato (with baklava crumble; $8).

Gràcia is, in part, inspired by Barri de Gràcia, an elegant and arty neighborhood in Barcelona. Gràcia is also Catalan for grace. Accordingly, Lockley and Chef Jason Tallent have gracefully added a new and interesting place to an increasingly enjoyable Burnet Road.

Gràcia Mediterranean, 4800 Burnet Road, Suite 450, (512)649-4844, graciamediterranean.com