yamas greek kitchen + bar

Ahhh, Greece! Skies of azul, Aegean blue seas, whitewashed walls, and the gently rocking cradle of democracy! Yamas has magically transported the spirit, aesthetic, and feel of a Grecian islet to Balcones Drive, along with the diverse flavors of land, sea, and hills covered with olive, fig, and pistachio trees. The space is gobsmackingly gorgeous, seanced straight from Mikonos. A nazar underlies the Yamas logo, an eye to ward evil from the bougainvillea’d white walls. The interior is a true treat for the eyes: bright, white, and woody with organic curves, tasteful decorations, and mythic murals.

The drinks menu is varied with cocktails, mocktails, and Grecian wines. I tried the namesake, The Yamas (Skinos Mastiha, lime, mint, and sage; $17), while The Bride ordered the drier of the Greek rosés. The Yamas was ambrosial, one of those drinks you must consciously tell yourself to sip sparingly, not gulp. Our appetizer (mezze) was the Pikilia Traditional (tzatziki, spicy feta, hummus, olive spread, and grilled pita; $23). Enough for four, we demolished those ramekins like Rammstein slamming through Du Hast at Madison Square Garden. The olive tapenade delivered a salty tang while the tzatziki (salted yogurt and cucumber) was hefty and plush. We shared the Yamas Salad (red cabbage, arugula, tomato, red onion, avocado, oregano, olive oil, Moderna vinegar, and pomegranate seeds; $22) and adored its uniqueness and myriad flavors. And there was a LOT of it! If the prices seem high, note that (1) this place is fancypants and (2) the dishes can easily feed more than one.

For mains, I went with Moussaka (eggplant, potato, Greek-style ground beef, and bechamel sauce; $28), while The Bride chose the Mediterranean Linguine (peppers, olives, tomato sauce, feta, and oregano; $22). The Bride enjoyed her dish, noting that it seemed more Italian than Greek, but that’s what you have when you order linguine with tomato sauce and don’t eat olives. My moussaka was thoroughly Greek with a gorgeous tower of layered mashed taters, beef, sliced taters, and eggplant girdled with cool tomato sauce. Again, an impressively sized dish, although perhaps too big since the ‘sakka was a bit on the cool side, especially toward the bottom.

We boxed up our ample leftovers and ordered the Baklava ($14) before we hit the exit. Wise decision. The ‘klava was large and drizzled in the freshest tasting honey and avalanched with roasted pistachio bits. The dish was paradoxically light and heavy simultaneously.

All in all, Yamas, which means cheers (“to our health!”) in Greek (“στην υγεια μας!”), is a hit, already making a Best of Austin list and requiring a reservation. The parking lot is small, but it appears you can park next door at the church. We sat indoors, but they have lovely east-facing outdoor seating as well. Like Darius, we’ll definitely invade again to try the fish, souzoukakia, and more mezze. We expect to be conquered.

Yamas Greek Kitchen + Bar, 5308 Balcones Drive, www.yamasatx.com