Texas Monthly just put out its first list of the 50 Best Tacos in Texas, and I am eating my way through it! Only 45 more tacos to go…
This is the Texas version of the original Don Artemio in Saltillo, Mexico, run by Chef Juan Ramón Cárdenas in Saltillo. The “taco” here is the Nopalitos Fritos, fried cactus tossed with bacon, served with heirloom house-made blue corn tortillas and a couple fiery salsas. I’ve had nopalito tacos before, but nothing like this. The cactus is impossibly thin and then flash fried, arriving like a stack of Bette Midler’s hair. The cactus flavor is there, but more subdued, and delightfully crunchy.
The dish is meant as a shared appetizer and would work better shared. I was in Lone Ranger mode, so eating this whole thing in one sitting was a bit too much. Based on this and how good that mescal margarita was (the La Güera Rodriguez; Banhez Mezcal Joven, pineapple, lime, tamarind-chipotle syrup; $22), I am looking forward to returning to further explore the menu.
Only forty-five tacos to go.
Don Artemio; 3268 W 7th St, Fort Worth, TX 76107; (817) 470-1439
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