More and more of the old Austin standbys are stepping out, but El Mercado is still slinging. Starting 40 years ago at their South First location in 1995, El Mercado began as a Mexican market (hence the name) that served breakfast tacos on the side. However, as the menu expanded from tacos to other items, the market faded while the food service took over. Allandale’s El Mercado started in 1991 when the Villegas Family partnered with the Stones to open an outpost on Burnet Road. The Stone family still operates the Burnet Road location.
With a tropical flair that would make Jimmy Buffett feel at home, the Burnet Road locale serves the same food and beverages as the mothership. While the food won’t earn a scratchy kiss from the Beard Foundation, tread marks from a Michelin, or a place on a Texas Monthly list, it’s reliably good TexMex at a good price served by good people.
Our faves include the chicken quesadillas ($16, but enough for two), fish tacos (two grilled or fried tilapia tacos with shredded cabbage, chipotle ranch, and fresh lime plus rice and beans; $17), and tortilla soup (chicken soup with tortillas strips, cheese, avocado, and rice; $10). The chips and salsa are dang good as are the margaritas (a recent mescal-arita was delightfully smoky). The chicken fajitas are darn good as well.
The Tacos al Pastor (two marinated pork and pineapple tacos served with fresh lime, onions, cilantro, and guacamole salad with rice and beans; $15.5) are special and among the best I’ve had in town. We miss the sopa de pollo or chicken caldo (or whatever it was called), but the world changes without consulting us.
Forty years is a long time, and our Mercado has been handed down from father to son. Here’s to hoping for 40 more years!
El Mercado, 7414 Burnet Rd, Austin, TX 78757; +1-512-454-2500; www.elmercadorestaurant.com
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